As I have already mentioned, my workshop is not very large and is also somewhat divided by an extension. I don’t have space for a free-standing saw.
Nevertheless, I had to put my beloved miter saw somewhere and it was as space-saving as possible but fully usable.
The corresponding floor space was found very quickly and should be located behind a wall protrusion, which unfortunately could not be removed from the extension of the workshop.
The corner was absolutely perfect. At the front, the base plate was flush with the wall, while at the back there was space for the pulling function, almost to the millimeter. Moving the saw elsewhere would have been a waste of space.
If there wasn’t a big catch: How do I saw long wooden slats?
To the right there is space and I could even open the window. However, to the left is no more than the width of the saw.
Of course, the solution came about when I was choosing a place – if I pull the saw forward a little, I will pass the wall protrusion and long boards or strips can also be sawed.
Extendable saw table – assembly instructions
Table frame for the miter saw
The frame is kept quite simple and consists of square timber 58 x 78 mm from the hardware store. Since I now had a miter saw, the upper frame was mitered.
As you can see in the picture, the saw (angle) had to be readjusted a bit. However, this played a subordinate role when using steel angles.
By chance I noticed during assembly that my sorting boxes would later fit exactly under the table to the millimeter. So this space can even be used sensibly.
- The upper frame was cut to miter.
- I used beading angles for the connection.
- The base frame fits perfectly in its corner.
- My sorting boxes just happen to fit perfectly under the saw table.
The base frame, which was also attached to the wall below, was already in place. The next step was the pull-out function that an extendable table needs.
Build a saw table pull-out function
As a tabletop, I took the rest of a worktop (you can get it cut to size in the hardware store or online at Holzland ) and first took over the mounting holes for the saw. In addition, the area that the saw needs as a support must be marked.
The contour was sawn out with the jigsaw and even if the rear radius was a bit too narrow, which you can see on the burned cut surface, the cutout is very straight for a thick worktop.
- Mark the mounting holes and the required contact surface.
- Then saw out the pull-out part of the saw table.
The table is standing, the plate is well placed … and would fall down when you pull it out. ?
Of course, an extendable saw table also needs a guide. Actually, I like to use full extension runners for drawers, taking into account the huge amount of dust when sawing, I prefer to limit myself to a more robust variant.
The implementation is therefore kept quite simple. A long aluminum profile 10 x 30 mm is attached under the moving part, which is guided through grooves in the wooden frame. Even when extended, the profile remains stuck under the fixed table top for long enough and prevents the saw from tipping forward.
- The aluminum profile runs in milled grooves.
- An additional shoulder is required for the fastening screws at the front.
- The view from below shows the pull-out function.
- When pulled out, the aluminum profile still clamps under the rear and well-fixed part of the worktop and thus prevents the saw from tipping over.
Function video
When fully extended, the movable table part bounces a little, as it no longer rests completely on the frame and is only held by the aluminum profile. Nevertheless, there is sufficient stability to be able to work safely.
All angles can be set to the left and the saw can therefore be used completely in this direction. When adjusting the angle to the right, however, the wall interferes so that a full 45 ° is not possible. So far this has not bothered, since the board to be sawed can also be turned over.
- The miter angle is somewhat restricted to the right.
- The full 45 ° are possible to the leLong strips can now also be sawed when pulled out.
Extendable video saw table
Chic must also be
Of course, the table can’t stay that naked, so it still has to be covered.
For this I used OSB boards , which I would not do again if I were to paint it again.
The panels are too rough and have to be painstakingly filled and sanded before they can be painted. That even several times!
Since community work is important, I left this work to my father-in-law. After all, why do you have specialist staff (painters) in your family? I admit it could also have been because I don’t like doing this job that much.
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- For a smooth surface, OSB panels must be leveled.
- The surface is then intensively sanded.
- Only then can it be painted several times.
The miter saw has now moved into its permanent place and has been there for several years. So my construction holds up quite well.